Caroline Emma Gardner uses bright colours and chunky knits to create vibrant, whimsical knitwear. Her uplifting MA collection showcases grey alpine patterns, lime green tweeds and light denim flat caps. The standout piece is a two-piece suit in candy-coloured Tetris blocks finished with a pair of pop art lips. I’m off to find Gardner’s boys in a technicolour ski lodge.
Taking the silhouette of early-nineties Armani and Versace, Hanna Ter Meulen creates a dark, sinister dandy. Draped jackets and slouchy trousers seem straight out of American Psycho, whilst intricate techniques like latticing and smocking bring the collection into the modern age. Floor-length hounds tooth coats and striking round sunglasses are noteworthy in this collection of unhinged elegance.
More gentleman assassins can be seen walking the catwalk for Robert Huth. Classic tailoring is offset with outside seams that look like jagged barbed wire. Huth plays with texture and layers in this monochromatic collection, with sheer jersey roll necks, leather and wool jackets and long classic dress coats hanging below cropped trousers. Huth’s aesthetic may be grounded in traditional tailoring, but on a closer look you’ll see it tearing apart at the seams.
Courtney McWilliams makes young, tough casual wear. T-shirts and tracksuits emblazoned with pit bulls, high-peaked baseball caps and Burberry-esque check give a gentle nod to the chav. However, McWilliams’ gentlemen scallies team these with tailored velvet jackets and padded country coats, giving street wear a refined edge.