1: He might have just signed to PPR – an unpredictable move to France from the boy dream – but that doesn’t mean Christopher Kane is abandoning his British roots. His collection was formed around the MRI of a healthy human brain. The 60s inspired cuts were topped with camo patterns in deep blues. Heavy, uncompromising materials like velvet and thick cotton contrasted with the lightest of abstract, modern lace. The camo dungarees dress was a highlight.
2: At Mulberry, there were skirts over cropped trousers and boxy tops and jackets in dark checks. It was more serious than previous collections without a hint of irony. The collection was feminine without being twee or looking for lols.
3: At Fashion East, Claire Barrow took inspiration from the coast with her fish bags and netlike adorned coats. The girls – and boys - could have wondered straight out of the sea.
4: Fellow Fashion Easter Ryan Lo was like an eccentric wedding. Scraps of torn chiffon and swaths of fur came together to make something surprisingly elegant. It was a clever summery take on grunge, the outfits looked light as a feather.
5: Finally at Fashion East, Ashley Williams next and her 90s meets 60s inspired collection. An explosion of pop culture old and new, with Elvis and ‘SUBSCRIBE’ slogans emblazoned onto dresses, it was bold and exciting.
6: David Koma was inspired by music and vinyl records, with jacket collars and skirt bottoms in grooved leather like a melted LP, and heavy on the black. Heart shaped necklines and cropped jackets added an 80s rock feel. As ever, the dresses completely complimented the female body – a woman's shape is at the heart of all his collections, making them pop friendly without sacrificing his credibility. David noticably hones his craft as the seasons pass.
7: Henry Holland’s Rave Nana collection came in lurid shades of orange pink and green. It was, as the name suggests, like giving a suburban nan a bunch of e’s and whizz.
8: Holly Fulton went rockabilly, with bold prints as usual but this time a little more free and sporadically placed. There were a few signature geometric prints but this season Holly’s collection was primarily about the clothes rather than the prints, which will no doubt connect with a wider audience.
9: Topshop Unique partnered with Google+ to livestream their show. It was quite 90s, a little bit Britpop, combining mohair, fur and sequins. The red patent jacket would have been prime Gallagher fodder in his heyday.
10: Richard Nicholl was simple, chic and not trying to be too feminine. They had the confidence to strip back, looking like they’d been influenced by something between 40s austerity and Talking Heads. Fashion has been so lively recently, it’s nice to see some good old fashioned modesty.
11: At Peter Pilotto, there was hardness and boxiness again. Rectangle people sure are fashionable at the moment. The bold freestyle prints were like something hanging on a wall in an 80s yuppie flat.
12: Louise Gray was typically eccentric, full of bold contrasting colours. There were toilet rolls, glasses, rags in hair – it was rolling pin waving batty working class mum sort of fare. As usual, full of fun and surprisingly wearable.
13: Meadham Kirchoff’s models looked a bit like gothic lolitas in Disneyland – they’d taken inspiration from Minnie Mouse. It was the fashion of fiction, with white nightdresses that were slightly victorian matched with black PVC, which ran through the collection like a river of tar.
14: Simplistic and almost Japanese, J.W Anderson once again played with the way we know clothes to exist. Their seams were in unusual places and there were unexpected cuts, but not in an attention seeking way. A few comic book prints broke up the relatively neutral palette, but didn’t seem out of place because of the consistency of the cuts.
15: Michael van der Ham's show was a forest of texture and colour and layering, heavy and light. Sheer silk tops were topped with applique velvet and threaded designs, and teamed with densely printed trousers. It was a darker and more sophisticated uniform than his patchwork looks from previous collections. The half-fringes gave models a steely but controlled toughness.
16: James Long took inspiration from his background and from the convent girls of Ireland, but not in a holier than thou way. It was more about the punk spirit that lies underneath those prim and proper habits. There were no heels. James Long makes womenswear for women as menswear is made for men. It’s about comfort, style and confidence and dressing for yourself rather than dressing how others would like to see you. Word to that.